How to Build Grip Strength (and Stop Ignoring Your Finger Extensors)
Rock climbing isn’t just about raw finger strength—it’s about balancing a (non-alcoholic) cocktail of strength, endurance, power, mobility, and technique. But ask the research and any climber what matters most, and they’ll likely point to the MVPs of the climbing game: finger strength.
Grip strength is essential for climbers—not only to improve performance but also to prevent injuries. Most of us know we need to train our finger flexors (those bad boys that help you crimp and pinch). What gets less love? The finger extensors. The finger extensors perform the movement of opening your hand and, more importantly, stabilize the fingers while crimping, pinching, gripping, etc. These are the unsung heroes that keep your hands balanced, healthy, and injury-resistant.
Spoiler alert: you’re probably not training them enough—or at all. Let’s change that.
The Flexor-to-Extensor Strength Ratio: What the Research Says
The flexor-to-extensor strength ratio is the measure of the strength of your finger flexors compared to your finger extensors. In a study by M. Devise and colleagues, researchers dove into the finger flexor-to-extensor strength ratio of climbers versus non-climbers. Their findings? Some cool and useful shit!
• Climbers have a mean flexor-to-extensor strength ratio of 6.27. That’s almost twice the average person’s ratio of 3.72. Big deal. Translation: as a climber, your finger flexors are way stronger than your extensors, and that imbalance could be setting you up for overuse injuries.
• When finger flexors and extensors were trained on the same day, only the flexors got stronger. Extensors need their own dedicated training time if you want to see progress.
Bottom line?
If you’re not isolating your extensors in your training, such as performing finger extension strengthening on a rest day, you’re missing a crucial opportunity to build balanced grip strength and reduce your risk of injury. (Also, you better be taking off days. You think you’re Adam Ondra? You’re not. Those pros are built from something different than the rest of us. Take at LEAST two rest days per week for your fingers. 3 rest days is better)
Why Finger Extensors Matter
If your flexor-to-extensor strength ratio is way out of whack (and it probably is), you’re putting yourself at higher risk for tendon imbalances, overuse injuries, and missing out on the ability to get the most out of your grip strength training.
How to Train Finger Extensors
So, how do you give your extensors the attention they deserve? The key is training them in isolation—on separate days from your hangboard sessions or finger curls. Here’s the protocol used in Devise’s study:
Position: Place your fingers under a flat surface (like a ledge or underside of a hangboard) and push upward into the surface using your finger extensors. Make sure you’re pushing upward with your fingers rather than just pushing up using your whole arm.
This method ensures your extensors are getting the targeted work they need to close the gap with your flexors.
Bonus Tips for Balanced Grip Strength
Train On Off-Days: Don’t do your finger extensor exercises on the same day as hangboarding or hard training. And if you’re not taking rest days for your fingers, we’ve got a lot more to work on than your joints and tendons.
Keep It Consistent: Make it a regular part of your routine, especially if you’re logging heavy flexor training on the hangboard or during long bouldering sessions. Perform for at least 8 weeks in a row, 3 times per week.
Start Slow: If you’ve never trained your extensors, ease into it to avoid overloading these smaller muscles.
Mix It Up: Use tools like rubber bands, extensor trainers, or flat surfaces to keep your workouts varied and engaging.
Track Your Progress: Pay attention to how your hands feel during climbs. Less-achy finger joints, reduced fatigue, improved recovery, and fewer tweaks in your fingers are good signs your extensors are catching up.
Ready to Build Grip Strength Like a Pro?
Grip strength isn’t just about pulling hard—it’s about training smart. Balancing your flexor and extensor strength can make all the difference in your climbing performance and injury prevention. If you’re ready to dial in your training and build rock-solid hands, book a session with one of the climbing experts at Rock Rehab in Santa Fe, New Mexico. Together, we’ll fine-tune your grip strength, crimping technique, and make sure your hands are as unstoppable as your psych.
Let’s get to work. Schedule your session today!
