How to Fix Shoulder Pain When You've Been Climbing Too Many Steep Routes (Subacromial Pain Syndrome)
Let's talk about that nagging shoulder pain you've been ignoring. You know the one – it shows up halfway through your steep climbing session, makes you think twice about going for that high gaston, and has you secretly Googling "shoulder injury climbing" at 2 AM while icing your shoulder again.
If you're getting intimate with ibuprofen and have mastered the art of climbing with T-Rex arms to avoid overhead moves, keep reading. We're about to break down why your shoulder's being a drama queen and what to do about it.
What's Actually Going On Up There?
That pain you're feeling? There's a good chance it's subacromial pain syndrome (SAPS), the fancy medical term for what happens when the space between your acromion (that bony bit on top of your shoulder) and your rotator cuff gets angry and inflamed. It's like trying to climb a squeeze chimney – there's just not enough space for everything to move smoothly.
Think about it: how many times do you reach overhead during a climbing session? Unless you're set on traversing, your shoulder is doing some serious acrobatics every time you climb. When the tissues in that subacromial space get irritated from overuse or poor movement patterns, they can swell up and cause pain, especially when you're reaching overhead or trying to lock off from a low position.
Signs You've Got a Spicy Shoulder
- Pain when reaching or pulling overhead
- Discomfort when sleeping on your side
- That lovely painful catching sensation when lowering your arm
- Weakness when trying to hold lock-offs
- Pain that's worse after climbing steep terrain
- Difficulty reaching across your body
Common Climbing Movements That'll Piss Off Your Shoulder
Not all climbing moves are created equal when it comes to angry shoulders. Here are the main offenders to watch out for during your recovery:
Gastons Above the Head:
These are possibly the worst. When you're pushing out on holds above shoulder height, you're basically asking your shoulder to get impinged. The combination of external rotation and overhead positioning is a recipe for pain.
Deep Lock-Offs:
Especially one-arm lock-offs with your elbow bent past 90 degrees. This position forces your rotator cuff to work overtime while your shoulder is in a compromised position.
Dynamic Moves to Slopers:
The impact of catching slopers dynamically puts a ton of stress through your shoulder joint, especially when the sloper is high. The sudden force combined with the open-hand position is particularly aggravating.
Why Climbers Get Shoulder Pain (Spoiler: It's Not Just Because We're Try-Hards)
Just like we discussed in our guide to strength training, climbers often develop muscle imbalances that can lead to injury. Here's what's usually going on:
1. Overhead Abuse
Let's be real – climbers love to abuse their shoulders. Whether you're projecting that steep 5.12 at the Red or working V6 roof problems at the gym, you're putting your shoulders through some serious stress. Add in some hangboarding and campus boarding (because training, bro), and you've got a recipe for angry shoulders.
2. Poor Scapular Control
Your shoulder blade (scapula) needs to move smoothly with your arm for optimal shoulder function. But many climbers have about as much scapular control as a newborn giraffe. When your scapula isn't moving right or your scapular muscles are weak, it can decrease that crucial subacromial space and lead to impingement.
3. Muscle Imbalances
Climbers are notorious for having super strong pulling muscles (lats and biceps) and relatively weak stabilizing muscles (trapezius and rotator cuff). This imbalance can pull your shoulder forward, making impingement more likely. It's like having a tug-of-war team with all the strong people on one side – things are going to get wonky.
4. Inadequate Rest and Recovery
"But I took two whole days off!" Yeah, and you probably spent those days hangboarding or doing "light" climbing. Your shoulders need actual rest, especially if you're regularly climbing steep terrain or doing a lot of dynamic movements.
The Fix: Getting Your Shoulders Back in Sending Shape
Here's the deal: fixing shoulder pain isn't just about rest (though that's part of it). You need a structured approach to address the underlying issues and build resilience for future climbing. Check out our injury prevention resources for more tips on maintaining healthy shoulders long-term.
1. Immediate Pain Management
First, let's calm down that angry shoulder:
- Modify your climbing: Stay away from steep terrain and overhead gastons temporarily
- Ice or heat after climbing if it's acutely irritated
- Dial down those campus board sessions (yes, really)
2. Fix Your Movement Patterns
Your shoulder shouldn't sound like a bowl of Rice Krispies when you move it. Work on:
- Proper scapular positioning during climbing movements (find a middle ground between totally relaxed and super engaged)
- Controlled lowering from holds (no dropping hard into straight arms)
- Mobilize your thoracic spine which directly improves shoulder mobility
- Core control to reduce shoulder compensation
3. Strengthen Those Stabilizers
Time to show some love to those neglected shoulder muscles:
- External rotation exercises (start light, focus on control)
- Scapular push-ups (quality over quantity)
- Shoulder Y's and T's
- Overhead presses
Let's break these down because form really matters here:
External Rotation: The Secret Weapon
Grab a light resistance band (seriously, go lighter than you think – your rotator cuff doesn't need to bench press). Anchor it at elbow height, keep your elbow at your side at 90 degrees, and rotate your arm outward. The key is keeping your shoulder blade set – think about gently squeezing a grape between your shoulder blades, not crushing it. Do 3 sets of 12-15 reps, focusing on the controlled return.
Scapular Push-ups: Not Your Regular Push-ups
These aren't your standard push-ups. Start in a plank position with arms straight. *Without bending your elbows*, let your shoulder blades sink together, then push them apart like you're trying to push the floor away. It should feel like you're protruding your upper back. If you're doing it right, you'll only move a couple inches, and your climbing partners might think you're doing the world's worst push-ups. That's okay – you're training scapular control, not trying to impress anyone. 3 sets of 10-12 reps.
Y's and T's: Our Personal Favorite
These are humbling – you'll use way less weight than you think. Start face down on an incline bench (or your crash pad at home):
* For Y's: Arms overhead in a Y position, thumbs up. Lift with your shoulder blades, not your lower back
* For T's: Arms out to the sides, slightly below shoulder height. Think about pulling your shoulders down and back
The key? Quality over quantity. If you're swinging or using momentum, go lighter or take a break. 2-3 sets of 15-20 reps each.
Overhead Presses: The Integration Move
Here's where it all comes together. Using dumbbells or resistance bands, press overhead while keeping those shoulder blades stable. Start light and focus on form – this isn't about maxing out, it's about teaching your arm and scapula to work together properly. The goal is smooth, controlled movement of your shoulder blades and arm. 3 sets of 10-12 reps.
Remember: these exercises aren't about ego or maxing out weight. They're about creating stable shoulders that can handle everything from delicate slab moves to thuggy roof climbing. If you're doing them right, they should feel almost too easy at first. Build the foundation before you start adding load.
4. Progressive Loading
For a comprehensive plan on returning to climbing, review The Ultimate Guide to Help You Return to Rock Climbing. You can't just rest forever and expect things to get better. The key is progressive loading:
- Start with basic strength exercises below shoulder height
- Gradually progress to overhead movements
- Reintroduce climbing on vertical terrain
- Slowly work back to steeper terrain with proper form
- Progress only if your shoulder doesn't get aggravated after climbing
5. Long-Term Prevention
Once you're feeling better, don't go back to your old habits:
- Maintain a balanced training program
- Include regular mobility work
- Listen to your body (yeah, we know, but seriously) and progress only if you're not in pain
- Take actual rest days (Netflix and hangboard is not rest)
Ready to address your shoulder pain? Book a session with our climbing specialists and get back to sending (or at least trying really hard).
When to See a Pro
If any of these sound familiar, it's time to book a session with a climbing-savvy PT:
- Pain lasting more than 2-3 weeks
- Sharp pain with specific movements that doesn't improve with rest
- Weakness with overhead pulling or locking off
- Pain that's affecting your sleep
- Painful clicking or catching sensations that don't go away
The Real Talk About Recovery
Here's the truth: shoulder issues don't fix themselves, and that YouTube video of random exercises probably isn't going to cut it. You need a structured approach based on your specific climbing goals and movement patterns.
At Rock Rehab, we get it. We know you don't want to take months off climbing (and you probably don't need to). We'll help you develop a plan that keeps you on the wall while addressing the root cause of your shoulder pain. Plus, we speak your language – no need to explain what a gaston is or why that proj means so much to you.
Ready to Fix That Shoulder?
Don't let shoulder pain hold you back from your projects. Schedule your appointment today and let's get you back on the wall moving better than ever.
🎯 Pro Tip: The sooner you address shoulder pain, the quicker you can get back to projecting at full strength. Don't wait until that "minor twinge" becomes a major problem.
