Hip labrum tears in rock climbers
You're trying to get your foot up on a high-step when you feel it—a sharp, deep pain in your hip or groin that sends you sailing off the wall. No send on this go. Or maybe it's been a slow build-up: that nagging discomfort that's made getting your hips into the wall, drop-knees, or high steps increasingly difficult. Either way, you've got a hip issue that's limiting your climbing, and it might be a labral tear.
What Is a Hip Labral Tear?
Your hip joint is designed as a ball and socket. Around the socket part (acetabulum) is a ring of cartilage called the labrum. This cartilage deepens the socket, creates a seal for joint fluid, and helps distribute pressure evenly across the joint surfaces.
When this cartilage tears, it compromises the stability and function of your hip joint, which can significantly impact your climbing performance and daily activities.
Common Symptoms of Hip Labral Tears
Your body sends clear signals when your labrum is injured:
Deep groin pain that in some cases can radiate to your buttock
Clicking, locking, or catching sensations in the hip
Pain that worsens with sitting, walking, or squatting
Stiffness after periods of rest
A feeling of instability in the hip joint
Impact on Your Climbing
For climbers, a labral tear presents significant challenges to performance:
Difficulty with high heel hooks and high stepping
Limitations and pain when trying to get your hips into the wall
Pain during drop knee positions
Limitation with powerful, dynamic movements
Compromised core tension, affecting stability on various terrain
Reduced hip mobility, limiting your movement repertoire
Physical Therapy Diagnostic Approach
When you are evaluated by a physical therapist at Rock Rehab, they'll listen carefully to your symptoms and the types of movements that cause your pain. Diagnosis is made based on the description of your symptom behavior in combination with several physical tests to the hip:
FADIR Test (Flexion, Adduction, Internal Rotation)
FABER Test (Flexion, Abduction, External Rotation)
Resisted hip flexion with overpressure
Straight leg raises with resistance
Palpation of hip structures to identify tender areas
Careful of MRIs. These have a very high false-positive rate (as many as 80% of people without hip pain show a labrum tear on an MRI) and can lead to unnecessary surgical or invasive interventions. Your PT can help you determine if an MRI is appropriate for your labral tear.
Rehabilitation Process
Recovering from a labral tear requires a systematic approach: Calm Shit Down. Build Shit Up.
Initial Pain Management
Modify climbing activities to avoid painful positions
Dry needling and joint mobilizations to reduce pain
Movement Pattern Assessment and Correction
Hip positioning education
Core activation sequencing
Proper engagement of hip stabilizers
Progressive Strengthening
Graduated hip strengthening in multiple planes of motion
Core stability work in climbing-relevant positions
Gluteal and deep hip rotator training
Sport-Specific Rehabilitation
Controlled progression of climbing movements
Graduated return to challenging positions
Technique refinement with proper hip mechanics
Return to Full Climbing Capacity
Gradual progression to more difficult climbing
Load management strategies
Preventative exercise routine
Recovery Outlook
While severe tears may require surgical intervention, the vast majority of climbers can return to full capacity with appropriate physical therapy. The key element is a trusting relationship with your rock climbing specialist physical therapist. At Rock Rehab, we will be with you every step of the way, getting you back to climbing safely and quickly, then progressing you back to climbing without restrictions.
Proper hip function is fundamental to efficient climbing movement—from basic footwork to complex crux sequences. Respecting the healing process will help ensure a sustainable return to climbing without reinjury.
Ready to address your hip pain and get back to climbing? Book an appointment with one of our specialized physical therapists who understand the unique demands climbing places on your body. With targeted treatment, you can return to the activities you love with confidence and without limitation.
